Monday, July 21, 2008
Popayan Hostel!
This place that I'm staying in is great. So, if any traveler stumbles across this blog, (1) Come to Colombia, (2) Stay here. The place and people are really great.
End of Prologue, Begin Chapter One
Rose from bed at the ripe hour of 5 ayem Sunday morning, and left the hotel in Ibarra to catch a taxi to the Terminal Terrestre and an early morning bus ride to Tulcan, close to the Colombian border. A three hour bus ride, high in the stark, high Andes, left us in a rainy Tulcan, where a mad taxi driver raced across wet, windy mountain roads to take us to the Ecuadorian immigration facility. A short wait (and a lot of confusion), and we had our exit stamps in our passports, and walked about 150 meters across the border to Colombia. Got another stamp (sort of lame, the "stamps" in both countries are dot matrix printouts), changed some money*, and grabbed another taxi to the bus station in Ipiales, Colombia. On a 10:30 bus to Popayan, which switchbacked down through lush valleys of green and terraced hills, mountains wih clouds draped over them like blankets.
High in the mountains, a few hours into the trip from Ipiales, our bus was stopped - a collection of Colombians, marching, protesting, armed police everywhere - protesting for peace in their long-troubled nation.
Then six hours into the last bus jounrey of the day, we were again stopped, pulled to the side of the road by armed men. They reviewed the bus drivers papers, quizzed him on the trip, and boarded the bus! The Colombian plice officer, M-16 in his hands, said something to Chase and I in Spanish. I did not understand. "¿Que?" was all I could think to say. "Buenes tardes," (Good Afternoon), he replied. The police inspected the bus, and 15 minutes after we were stopped us, we were on our way.
Arriving 8 hours after boarding the bus in Ipiales (and 13 since we left Ibarra), we alighted in Popayan, the well preserved colonial "White City" of Southern Colombia. It was a long day of traveling, but worth it for this lovely, if extremely quiet, capital of the deparmentivo.
We had a nice meal last night, and met a Scottish fellow who has been the caretaker of a hostel in town for a few months, with some really helpful information on the town and surrounding area. For those readers worried for our safety (in other words, for my mom and people who know Chase), the Scotsman said in the four months that he has been here, he has heard zero horror stories about the surrounding area. He and his Australian dining companion maintained that because Colombia has so few tourists, it does not attract theifs because they can not survive on the meager earning from robbing so few travelers.
In any event, I will try to post back before we leave for the countryside, I think we will be without internet access for a day or two.
And the coffee is really, really good here.
High in the mountains, a few hours into the trip from Ipiales, our bus was stopped - a collection of Colombians, marching, protesting, armed police everywhere - protesting for peace in their long-troubled nation.
Then six hours into the last bus jounrey of the day, we were again stopped, pulled to the side of the road by armed men. They reviewed the bus drivers papers, quizzed him on the trip, and boarded the bus! The Colombian plice officer, M-16 in his hands, said something to Chase and I in Spanish. I did not understand. "¿Que?" was all I could think to say. "Buenes tardes," (Good Afternoon), he replied. The police inspected the bus, and 15 minutes after we were stopped us, we were on our way.
Arriving 8 hours after boarding the bus in Ipiales (and 13 since we left Ibarra), we alighted in Popayan, the well preserved colonial "White City" of Southern Colombia. It was a long day of traveling, but worth it for this lovely, if extremely quiet, capital of the deparmentivo.
We had a nice meal last night, and met a Scottish fellow who has been the caretaker of a hostel in town for a few months, with some really helpful information on the town and surrounding area. For those readers worried for our safety (in other words, for my mom and people who know Chase), the Scotsman said in the four months that he has been here, he has heard zero horror stories about the surrounding area. He and his Australian dining companion maintained that because Colombia has so few tourists, it does not attract theifs because they can not survive on the meager earning from robbing so few travelers.
In any event, I will try to post back before we leave for the countryside, I think we will be without internet access for a day or two.
And the coffee is really, really good here.
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Tomorrow, Colombia
Spent a nice evening at the Rincon de Trabajare in Otavalo, enjoying the terrace with Chase, some Pilsener and anisado, and got up early enough to see the Otavalo Saturday market. Shirts, chickens, produce, scarves, winter hats, handicrafts, soap, goats, summer hats, guineau pigs, blankets and puppies were all available. We then rabbed a bus to Ibarra, just a 45 minute trip up the panamericana. A pleasant town, high in the mountains, with big skies and lovely plazas.
While enjoying some papas fritadas and cervezas at an outdoor cafe, we saw a parade procession honoring Divino Niño, with loudspeakers on trucks, dancers, and floats all honoring the day. A nice spectacle, indeed.
Tomorrow we press on - quite early - for Colombia. This is the diciest part of the journey, but we are well informed and plan to travel solely by daylight. I´ll check in when I´m finally in Colombia.
While enjoying some papas fritadas and cervezas at an outdoor cafe, we saw a parade procession honoring Divino Niño, with loudspeakers on trucks, dancers, and floats all honoring the day. A nice spectacle, indeed.
Tomorrow we press on - quite early - for Colombia. This is the diciest part of the journey, but we are well informed and plan to travel solely by daylight. I´ll check in when I´m finally in Colombia.
Friday, July 18, 2008
On to Otavalo
And people think that Colombia is the dangerous place.
Yesterday night, Chase and I were looking for a restaurant that was slightly "off map." I didn't mind hunting for a few blocks looking for the place, but it was after dark so we turned around after a few blocks. So we are back on one of the main drags of New Quito - maybe 4 blocks from our hotel, close to other people, cafes, etc., when some guy walks behing Chase and sticks his hand in his front pocket! Chase valiantly grabbed the guy by the wrist before he got far into it, and he quickly scampered off when he was caught. Thankfully, several people asked him if he was ok, but a crazy moment nonetheless.
We have decided to travel to Colombia overland, rather than fly. We are in a smaller town north of Quito, Otavalo, which is well known for its Saturday market. We will stay here overnight, and maybe head tomorrow to Ibarra, 30 minutes from the border, or just stay anther night here. Haven't seen much yet, so check back later for details on Otavalo.
Details to follow on...
Yesterday night, Chase and I were looking for a restaurant that was slightly "off map." I didn't mind hunting for a few blocks looking for the place, but it was after dark so we turned around after a few blocks. So we are back on one of the main drags of New Quito - maybe 4 blocks from our hotel, close to other people, cafes, etc., when some guy walks behing Chase and sticks his hand in his front pocket! Chase valiantly grabbed the guy by the wrist before he got far into it, and he quickly scampered off when he was caught. Thankfully, several people asked him if he was ok, but a crazy moment nonetheless.
We have decided to travel to Colombia overland, rather than fly. We are in a smaller town north of Quito, Otavalo, which is well known for its Saturday market. We will stay here overnight, and maybe head tomorrow to Ibarra, 30 minutes from the border, or just stay anther night here. Haven't seen much yet, so check back later for details on Otavalo.
Details to follow on...
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Estamos Aqui
The best thing about this blog posting is that at no time will I mention mint tea.
The flight into Quito was uneventful, as was the ride into the hotel. We are staying in New Quito, a hip area chock full of cafes, bars, restaurants and hotels. The weather is chilly at night (low 50s?), and we sat at an outdoor cafe soaking up Quito while simultaneously soaking up Long Island Iced Teas. The local beer is just called ¨Pilsener,¨ a drinkable and simple well, pilsner.
Today we made it into Old Quito, under picture perfect blue skies and temperatures around 70. Churches, cathedrals, basillicas, cafes, and a very nice set lunch filled up our day. (I really like that they don´t oversalt soup here). Tonight we plan to splurge on a nice meal, and figure out the next step. Until later.
The flight into Quito was uneventful, as was the ride into the hotel. We are staying in New Quito, a hip area chock full of cafes, bars, restaurants and hotels. The weather is chilly at night (low 50s?), and we sat at an outdoor cafe soaking up Quito while simultaneously soaking up Long Island Iced Teas. The local beer is just called ¨Pilsener,¨ a drinkable and simple well, pilsner.
Today we made it into Old Quito, under picture perfect blue skies and temperatures around 70. Churches, cathedrals, basillicas, cafes, and a very nice set lunch filled up our day. (I really like that they don´t oversalt soup here). Tonight we plan to splurge on a nice meal, and figure out the next step. Until later.
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Itinerary for Today
(Pre-flight beer with Chase at DCA)
American Airlines 308 WASHINGTON REAGAN WED 16JUL
12:55 PM MIAMI INTERNTNL 3:25 PM Q
Jason Economy Seat 26A Food (and Cocktails) For Purchase
Chase Economy Seat 26B Food (and Cocktails) For Purchase
(Flight break beer with Chase at Miami)
American Airlines 967 MIAMI INTERNTNL WED 16JUL
5:45 PM QUITO 8:45 PM Q
Jason Economy Seat 33A Dinner
Charles Economy Seat 33B Dinner
(Post flight drinks with Chase in Quito)
American Airlines 308 WASHINGTON REAGAN WED 16JUL
12:55 PM MIAMI INTERNTNL 3:25 PM Q
Jason Economy Seat 26A Food (and Cocktails) For Purchase
Chase Economy Seat 26B Food (and Cocktails) For Purchase
(Flight break beer with Chase at Miami)
American Airlines 967 MIAMI INTERNTNL WED 16JUL
5:45 PM QUITO 8:45 PM Q
Jason Economy Seat 33A Dinner
Charles Economy Seat 33B Dinner
(Post flight drinks with Chase in Quito)
Saturday, July 12, 2008
What's Up
I'm off on Wednesday for three weeks in Ecuador and Colombia. I'm traveling with my friend and co-worker, Chase.
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